Journal
Notes from the Souss.
What's ripening in the garden, where to go this week, and the people and crafts behind the house.
Souss 6 min read
The red gold of Taliouine
Every autumn, for three weeks, the plateau east of Taroudant turns purple before dawn.
Taroudant 4 min read
Seven and a half kilometres of wall
The ramparts of Taroudant are among the best kept in Morocco. Here's how to see them.
Taroudant 4 min read
The souk before the crowds
Taroudant's two souks are calm, honest and unhurried. Go early, and go with Malika.
Craft 5 min read
Tadelakt, polished by hand
Why the walls in your bathroom glow, and why they took a week to make.
Souss 3 min read
The road to Tiout
A palm oasis, a ruined kasbah on the hill, and lunch in a garden. Half an hour away.